Cosmetics with "hyaluronic": a panacea or a marketing ploy?
Cosmetics with "hyaluronic": a panacea or a marketing ploy?
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Hyaluronic acid is the main "moisturizer" and one of the most popular components of cosmetics. As a rule, no anti-age cream is complete without hyaluronic acid. Let's figure out what hyaluronic acid is, why our skin needs it and whether cosmetics based on it "work". A regular Cosmo contributor, beauty blogger Ekaterina Shevchuk on cosmetics "ate the dog." We asked Katya to talk about what to expect from hyaluronic acid, and what is better not to hope for.

Cosmetics with "hyaluronic": a panacea or a marketing ploy? Ekaterina Shevchuk

A little chemistry

Our skin is like a water-spring mattress, the "springs" of which are collagen and elastin fibers, and the "stuffing" is a gel of glycosaminoglycans. Glycosaminoglycans are made up of carbohydrates and proteins and are excellent at retaining moisture. So the main glycosaminoglycan of the dermis is hyaluronic acid. I am sure many of you did not know that in fact "hyaluron" is sugar. By the way, in the body of an average person weighing about 70 kg "lives" about 15 grams of "hyaluron", 1/3 of which is destroyed and synthesized anew every day. Hyaluronic acid, like cement, holds cells together, regulates their metabolism, supports collagen synthesis, moisturizes the skin, ensures its elasticity and healthy glow. It is made up of very large molecules that form a network of cells. Due to this structure and size of the molecules, the "hyaluron" works like a supersponge: it attracts a huge amount of water (almost 1000 times its weight) and holds its molecules in the cells of the network (like in a "hyaluronic prison"). As a result, a gel is formed, which, in fact, forms the elasticity of the skin.

Why are we losing it?

It is important to understand that the "hyaluron" is able to assess the level of humidity, adapt to it and regulate the amount of absorbed moisture depending on the climate and season. In our skin, there is a continuous process of synthesis and destruction of hyaluronic acid. With age, as well as with excessive exposure to the sun, smoking and improper diet, the amount of "hyaluron" is inexorably reduced. One way or another, the synthesis of hyaluronic acid begins to decline from the age of 20, and its deficiency becomes especially noticeable after 30-40 years. A decrease in the amount of hyaluronic acid interferes with the proper functioning of the skin in general. Fibroblasts suffer, as a result - collagen synthesis slows down. It turns out a vicious circle: there is little "hyaluron" - fibroblasts work poorly - the synthesis of a new "hyaluron" decreases.

What "hyaluronic" is contained in cosmetics?

Hyaluronic acid in cosmetics is of high and low molecular weight. High molecular weight does not penetrate on its own and is used in fillers for injection. Low molecular weight penetrates the skin and is used in creams, masks and serums. This includes hydrolyzed, mini- and nano-hyaluronic acid, and sodium hyaluronate. Now let's talk about hyaluronic acid in our creams and serums. It is necessary to understand that there are a great many forms and varieties of "hyaluron", so it is not always easy to find it immediately in the composition of the product. So, on the label you need to look for one of these names:

  • hyaluronic acid;
  • sodium hyaluronate;
  • potassium hyaluronate;
  • L-sodium hyaluronate;
  • disodium acetyl glucosamine phosphate;
  • sodium hyaluronic acid;
  • sodium acetyl hyaluronate;
  • hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid;
  • hyaluronan.

Hyaluronic acid is a water-soluble product, so it goes well with other components of cosmetic formulas. Usually it is added in an amount of 1% solution or from 0.01 to 0.3% (more often from 0.01 to 0.05%) of a pure substance.

What properties does hyaluronic acid have and why is it so necessary for our skin?

  • Moisturizing: 1 g of hyaluronic acid can hold 6 liters of water. Plus, it creates a thin, resilient, breathable film on the skin's surface, which prevents moisture loss.
  • Regeneration: stimulates wound healing with virtually no scarring, reduces the risk of scarring, softens and smoothes.
  • Protection: activates the protective properties of the skin, protects against ultraviolet radiation and free radicals.
  • Wrinkle Filling: Wrinkles are less visible and the skin looks smoother, firmer and more youthful.
  • Problem skin care: "hyaluronic acid" serves as an excellent basis for the care of oily, problem skin, reduces inflammation. It has practically no contraindications, it is suitable for allergy sufferers, and can also be used during pregnancy and lactation.

Does hyaluronic acid work in cosmetics?

To answer the question of whether hyaluronic acid works in cosmetics, you need to understand what exactly we expect from it. "Hyaluron" in any form perfectly moisturizes, promotes regeneration and increases the skin's protection from external influences. If you are looking for a product for high-quality skin hydration, hyaluronic acid is definitely your product. Just don’t waste your money on rinse-off products, you’d better buy a good cream. With regard to smoothing wrinkles, then hyaluronic acid works and does a good job. The main thing is to understand that the wrinkle filling effect is temporary. And in order for the result to be preserved, it is necessary to use products with hyaluronic acid constantly. Unfortunately, the "hyaluronic acid" from cosmetics is not able to stimulate synthesis or interact with the skin's own hyaluronic acid, therefore, neither fillers nor the most expensive cosmetics can prevent premature aging. Well, now my personal top 7 products with hyaluronic acid:

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Capsules with hyaluronic acid Hyaluron Filler Caps, Dr. Grandel

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Moisturizing body mousse Body Mousse Aqua with 2 types of hyaluronic acid and omega acids, Rilastil

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Micellar water with hyaluronic acid Micellar Water, Madara Cosmetics

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Serum with hyaluronic acid and collagen Serum Repair, Dr. Sebagh

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Moisturizing gel for sensitive skin Calm Water Gel, Dermalogica

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Serum with hyaluronic acid Hyalu B5 Serum, La Roche-Posay

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Moisturizing mask Bamboo Waterlock, Erborian

You can find out more about beauty and proven beauty products from special videos on my Youtube channel or on my Instagram page.

Always yours Ekaterina Shevchuk

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