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Rose, sandalwood, lavender … I'm tired! How is perfumery changing, what notes are in fashion now and how to find an unusual scent?
Let's start with the trump cards: “vegetable” aromas have come into fashion. Pumpkin, carrots, beets, peas … potatoes with salad oooh ooh. Sorry, failed! But the fact remains: the fashion for a healthy lifestyle, eco-style and reasonable consumption could not but affect the perfumery sphere, and for several years now the leading “noses” of the industry have been looking for a way to make vegetable notes sound interesting and bright.
So which vegetables inspire perfumers?
One of the lightest and freshest scents that most people love. It's funny, but it is technically impossible to obtain a sufficiently aromatic extract from a cucumber, so it is “made” from the juice of violet leaves. Back in 2011, Jo Malone released Earl Gray and Cucumber Cologne: there is certainly more than one cucumber, it is surrounded by notes of apple, bergamot, jasmine and musk, but the fragrance sounds fresh and bright. Green Tea Cucumber by Elizabeth Arden is even lighter and fresher. Absolute Love - Cucumber Eau de Cologne by Demeter and Splash Cucumber by Marc Jacobs. And this summer, the Summer 8.0 Zara fragrance was released, which the brand positions as masculine, but we think it is quite universal. Bergamot, pepper and cardamom are not a purely masculine composition at all, so we highly recommend paying attention. Cucumber notes sound good in the company of spicy or sweet ones: such a contrast is considered classic, although it should be noted that in recent years the fragrance industry has gravitated towards monoscent.
Tomato in perfumery is presented in two types of aromas: in fact, the smell of the fruits themselves and the aroma of tops, which many adore and just as many cannot stand. Usually, the notes of tomato tops are used at the top of the composition: a bitter, spicy and rather harsh accord is obtained, which is traditionally softened by fruity and floral notes. One cannot fail to note the beloved fragrance Brocard “Tomato and Black Currant Leaves”, Couronne d'Itali from Gustave Eiffel, Tomato Leaves And Orange Blossoms from YouFirst, Green Spell from Eris Parfums and Found at Dusk from Miller Harris, released in 2021. Top notes are bergamot, mint, orange, lime, pink pepper and basil (is that not a salad?); middle notes - with bitterness, black currant, black currant syrup, tomato leaf and geranium, and in the trail of fir balsam, vanilla and patchouli. But the most important thing in "tomato" aromas is that it is very important not to overdo it with them, otherwise the piquant sillage will turn into the scent of a grandmother's greenhouse.
Carrots in aromas sound sweet, spicy and at the same time soft, for which perfumers love it. Interestingly, to obtain the desired aroma, not the root crop itself is used, but the seeds, and this process is quite expensive. And we also have a surprise for you: you already know most of the scents in which carrots are soloing! This is Clinique Happy Heart, and Byredo Seven Veils, and IKON 511 … And recently there was a gorgeous fragrance L'Atelier Parfum Verte Euphorie - and also with the main note of carrots! Although it is quite actively shaded by orange oil and grapefruit, this aromatic perfume sounds very interesting and unusual, especially in warm weather on warmed up skin. However, of course, it's a matter of taste.
Beetroot is one of the earthiest flavors out there, and not everyone likes it. However, even if you hesitate to buy such a perfume, at least get to know the iconic representatives. Of course, the classic is Demeter Beetroot. But in 2020 and 2021, 2 beet-based fragrances came out at once: Comme des Garçons Parfums Rouge and Diptyque Kyoto. The composition was composed by Alexandra Karlin - a perfumer from Paris, who created fragrances for Brocard, Amouage, Givenchy, Salvador Dali, Salvatore Ferragamo. In Kyoto, the quartet features notes of rose, incense, vetiver and beetroot.
Well, how without her? In fact, of course, cabbage in the aromas does not have the usual "borscht" smell, it just adds a slight bitterness. So far, there are only two fragrances on the market with notes of cabbage, but the trend tells us that the novelties will not be long in coming.
Although formally she is not a vegetable, we could not pass by.In the last year alone, several fragrances have been released with a base note of hemp, and it looks like there are still a lot of new additions to come in this area! The hemp scent is rather herbal, with hints of dry hay and nuts distinctly audible in them. Naturally, this has nothing to do with the smell of smoke. But if you like Very Unusual scents, check out Black Sheikh from Lab Fragrance: it is a selective niche scent that opens with an intense and fresh sound of green notes and tart hemp grass. The heart of the perfume is a powerful accord of woody notes and notes of tobacco, with an incredible hint of black resin.